So came the day when it was time to move on from Smith Rock. I would have loved to stay longer, but as we had two weeks of good weather that over our last couple of days in the area turned pretty grim, I felt alright leaving.
Said working Scarface, one of many classic Smith testpieces. Seing how much climbing has been moving forward in the last years, it’s amazing that Scott Franklin put up this hard route already back in 1987.
In the end I’m quite happy with the techy sandstone-routes I managed to get up. It’s by no means anything to brag about, but I think I did close to the best I could considering the shape I’m in. I climbed some of the routes I’d been wanting to get on, including some ultra classics like Chain reaction, Churning in the wake, Kings of rap and Darkness at noon. The perhaps best of them was Darkness at noon. 30 meters sustained, technical climbing up a beautiful vertical to slightly overhanging wall, makes for one of my all time favorites. Smith is packed with quality climbs like that, in varried difficulties. Many of them I would love to get on and I hope to be back soon, as psyched but much stronger.
Since we left Smith on monday night we passed trough Salt lake city to re-visit some friends and then headed to Moab for the second time this trip. Down there we got a bit of climbing in at Potach road and also spent a day squeezing our selfs (litterly spoken) up chimneys to the top of Castleton tower. A very unigue and frightening experience as I have no trust in my own abilties placing gear.
As from last night we are back in Boulder where the trip began six weeks ago. I can’t believe we only have a few more days before flying home. If I could I would cancel my ticket and stay here climbing until I’d get borred with it, which would probably be never. But every trip comes to an end and to see something good about that, it means I can start planning the next one.